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Beaujolais

One of the most recited phrases in the world of food and wine is "white wine with white meat, red wine with red meat." But, rules are made to be broken, or at least avoided, with the possibility of substantial palate rewards.

Years ago, I was busy organizing a dinner party for an elegant lady of Asian descent who asked me to select wine for her upcoming event. Since a flavorful chicken dish was the entrée, I was headed to white wine land with my suggestion.

In casual conversation, the lady offered that a Beaujolais wine called Cote-de-Brouilly was her choice, explaining that it was fine with red or white meat. Since she had traveled extensively, had a keen passion for cuisine and had fabulous taste in all she pursued, I bought the wine, cracked open the books and pulled some corks. My discoveries were, and continue to be, delicious.

Cote-de-Brouilly is one of the nine crus wines of Beaujolais-Village and are all made from the Gamay grape grown in Southern Burgundy. Georges Duboeuf Cote-de-Brouilly from Domaine de la Feuille hails from the center of Brouilly where a chapel serves as a beacon for the devotees of this wine. Late each summer, they carry on a tradition of a pilgrimage to Mont de Brouilly in anticipation of a good grape harvest.

In a glass, Cote-de-Brouilly has a depth of color reminiscent of garnets accentuated with the brilliance of rubies. Bring it to your nose and inhale the warmth of fresh ripe grapes.

On the palate, this wine offers an initial dryness that rapidly opens up the well-balanced, full-bodied flavors of red fruits. It’s refreshing and light and deserves to be drunk, not sipped.

Julienas is another wine of note from Beaujolais whose name is literally a derivative of Julius Caesar. It’s a clean, clear, brilliant, garnet red in a glass and in full possession of ripe berries in the nose. This is a firm wine that’s rich and robust on the palate. Julienas is slow to mature by reputation and the longest lasting Beaujolais.

A third Duboeuf selection is Moulin-a-Vent, commonly referred to as "The Lord of Beaujolais" for it’s full-bodied and robust appeal. Swirl the wine in a balloon style glass and marvel at the rich, garnet red color and the attractive legs. There is a depth of aroma that reminded me of pot roast, however crazy that may sound. Drink the wine and the vibrant and active flavor impressions are bracing and clean with a fleeting aftertaste.

Bottom line; embrace the wines of Beaujolais, especially these three. Chill them, serve them, drink them and don’t be afraid to pair them with red or white meats. Remember, there really are no rules.

Posted by Floyd at March 11, 2005 09:48 AM